Page 973 - Proceedings Collega2023
P. 973

dress have been largely concerned with social and cultural contexts, including the transformation and the
               contemporary forces of globalization. There are various ways to trace identity including through language
               and physical body. “Outward appearance” or clothing is also one of the significant markers of identity.
               Barth  (A  Gunaratne.  (1998)  acknowledged  that  actors  in  a  given  group  use  some  cultural  features,
               including clothing, as obvious signals or signs that people look for or exhibit identity.

                       However, through dressing one is able to overcome this and articulate aspects of their character
               and together construct an identity. People can express and define who they are and who they want to be
               through the way they dress. The fashion used by everyone affects their appearance that can then articulate
               factors  of  identity  such  as  gender,  ethnicity,  life  style,  social  class  and  so  on.  Ethnicity  as  a  cultural
               phenomenon is based on the sharing of norms, value, beliefs, cultural symbols and practices” (Barker,
               2003: 250). Ethic dress is used to portray these cultural concepts and marks one ethnic identity (Eicher,
               1995). Exampled in which dress is used to define once ethnicity include a Thai Malay Muslim women
               wearing baju kurung and a hijab, and a Thai Malay Muslim man wearing a turban or a kuffiyah with baju
               Melayu. The “Baju kurung and hijab” can be used as an expressive visual statement about a Thai Malay
               woman’s identity.  The hijab is used as a cultural symbol to represent the religious aspect of Malay ethnic
               identity which is to frame and express her ethnic identity.
                       Thus,  it  is  evident  that  through  ones  dress  a  religious,  culture  and  ethnic  identity  can  be
               immediately perceived. There are many individuals out there that wear their ethnic dress on a day-to-day
               basis with the desire to express their ethnic identity and who are not prepared to abandon their ethnic
               identity (Riello and McNeil, 2010). As cultures have evolved over time, so have the way people dress
               especially the young one and their interaction with non-traditional cultural clothing. Modern dress can be
               seen  as  a  replacement  of  ethnic  dress  fashion.  In  today’s  postmodern  society,  modern  dresses  the
               everyday attire of most people around the world. It is seen as a modern concept that is associates with
               “Forward Looking” and progressing both socially and economically. In almost all parts of the world it is
               seen  as  change  that  is  favored  in  comparison  to  ethnic  dressing  (Eisher,  Sumberg,  1995).  In  today’s
               postmodern society many people have completely discarded their ethnic dress wear it solely on special
               cultural events. It is believed that this caused by cultural displacement that is caused by the concept of
               globalization (Maynard, 2004)

                       Therefore, use of dress as an expression of social and cultural identity has increased in many
               countries. Through dress, people are able to express their social and cultural identities. Studies (Hamilton
               & Hamilton, 1989; Eicher & Sumberg 1995; Kuma-Kpobee, Power & Otieno, 2008). Have established that
               there is a link between dress and societal differentiation. They recognize the importance of dress to culture
               and  its  potential  to  reveal  connections  between  people  and  their  cultural  identity.  In  spite  of  the
               significance of dress, Studies on traditional dress especially among the Thai Malay ethnic group in the
               southern provinces seems to be lacking; an anomaly that is out of sync with the desire to preserve local
               culture and historical heritage. Therefore, it is necessary to understand the meanings and significance of
               the ethnic traditional dress, and its relationship with cultural identity. Thus, the Thai Malays will only be in
               a position to adopt a holistic notion for preservation of their cultural artefacts, by first establishing the
               relationship between traditional dress and salient values and meanings.

                          The body modifications and supplements that mark the ethnic identity of an individual are ethnic
               dress. Ethnic dress and ethnicity are linked. Manning Nash observed that although ethnicity and ethnic
               group seem to have clear references, they are “among the most complicated, volatile and emotionally


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